Hi !
The part you'd found might be the leaf spring from inside the lift microswitch.
If that spring falls out a) the switch won't work and b) might be broken or c) otherwise damaged - most likely due to ... err ... "improper handling of parts". It is replaceable fortunately and the one in my picture is from a parts dealer. This particular one is from a german company called "Marquardt". It is a "Baureihe 1010". Precisely a 1010.0101:
https://www.marquardt-schalter…24fbdeff995bb61e75beda6f8
The cheapest source in Germany is Pollin: 2.68€ a piece.
https://www.pollin.de/p/marqua…o5N7_PP3A4FQaAtUoEALw_wcB
I *would* consider to throw out the other two as well, since they tend to oxydate over time and the "Lift" contact is heavily dependent on the "Now Closed" contacts on "Stop" and "Start".
Local sources may have substitutes from other manufacturers.
Replacement requires soldering however.
BTW:
One of my favourite graphics ... 
It shows the signal path on what happens when either switch is pressed.
The "Start" button is the highest prioritized. Its NO-contact directly triggers the delay-and-release circuitry on the board.
And then the T9103 pulls its solenoid to Ground.
"Stop" is dependent on the NC-contact of "Start". It cannot act, when "Start" is operated.
"Lift" is the least prioritized. It depends on the now-closed-contact on both "Start" and "Stop". If these contacts are corroded "Lift" will fail to operate.
The very same scheme applies to the Dual 731 as well.
... And another BTW:
The switches have a certain cam on the switchlever. *That* again is the Marquardt 1010.3001 switch.
Even cheaper at Bürklin in Germany for only 2.05€
https://www.buerklin.com/de/p/…chalter/1010-3001/13G124/
Damn. I missed that in my first answer ...
Thank You for such detailed answer!!
My thought was also that this can be a spring for button since seller said that the Turntable was fully working, probably the package was poorly handled by courier company 
I will take a look and check the condition of the buttons and if they turn out to be bad I will change them.
Merry christmas!!!
Hi !
I will take a look and check the condition of the buttons and if they turn out to be bad I will change them.
If you are good with a tiny pair of pliers and have calm steady hands you might be able to re-install the spring in the switch.
That *might* solve the problem for now and you don't need to buy parts and solder around in the unit. Which is often less fun.
I did that some time ago on a similar switch - which turned out to be a very special one with a particular fixing-base no longer available.
My thought was also that this can be a spring for button since seller said that the Turntable was fully working, probably the package was poorly handled by courier company
Probably.
The transport droids don't handle stuff with given care. Even a sticker with "Fragile!" on the box would not stop them for kicking it around ... apart from the fact that the boxes run over automated conveyor belts and - often - experience "drop heights" of > 60 cm (over 3 feet). That is considered "normal transportation methods" over here at DHL in Germany. So it is no real surprise when turntables arrive damaged.
They will even manage to damage an office safe or a single steel plate shipped.
I started with Ebay when it was brand-new in the mid-90s. Since then I bought quite a lot stuff from auctions and sellers abroad as far as from Japan and the US. Small items: generally no problem. I stopped buying turntables or tape recorders from auction platforms pretty soon, after two turntables arrived totally wrecked. Partially fault of the sellers, which didn't invest much time in packing and not even released the cover from the hinges and / or removed the turntable platter and stored it *under* the unit. Partially fault of the rough tour from the seller to my place via transportation service. The dented and torn packages that arrive here even today tell their own stories of carelessness and tough handling. So I started buying locally and pick them up myself in a 150 miles radius around my hometown. The advantage of working in a computer repair company - my average mileage a year is around 50.000 miles - and I pick stuff from where I'm going next or quite regular.
That is correct, I collected my self C839RC because I was worried about handling it by company, too bad that I did not do that with turntable since the seller was not that far away from me, I learned my lesson. That is a shame since sometimes you pay for extra care but couriers and companies don't care about it, I saw a DPD new storage here in Poland and the situation is almost the same as in DHL with packages drops on conveyor belts. That is really scary to see.
In my situation the turntable was disassembled by the seller and secured with foams etc but we cant cheat gravity and forces when item is dropped unfortunately.
As for the repair I have experience to work with various things and they are not that mysterious for me I will manage to put this little spring on its place and see if the lift will come to life.
Hi Mateusz !
In my situation the turntable was disassembled by the seller and secured with foams etc but we cant cheat gravity and forces when item is dropped unfortunately.
Yeah - that's true.
Even though many people try to. Or ignore it. And miserably fail ...
As for the repair I have experience to work with various things and they are not that mysterious for me
I bet.
Good luck on it. As said: the 626 is not *that* complicated. It has a comparatively simple electronics and apart from the somewhat odd lift mechanism it is a good turntable.
(And I don't have one in the collection. Wonder why ? Most likely it did not attract me *that* much and I don't use the 1500-series amp / tuner / C839 with remote control. Or like ULM-gear *that* much.)
Just out of experience:
After this spring is removed (by force or however) it is quite likely, that the rest of the part became loose and won't have the same tension as before.
Means even if you are able to repair it, it's quite likely that this spring will "jump out" again and again. I gave up after several attempts and just bought a new one. So in case it jumps out after your repair, don't bother and just get a new one
Hi !
If that spring falls out a) the switch won't work and b) might be broken or c) otherwise damaged - most likely due to ... err ... "improper handling of parts".
See it ?
After this spring is removed (by force or however) it is quite likely, that the rest of the part became loose and won't have the same tension as before.
I did mention that before ...
The spring will not eject without a reason. Well ... normally not.
*At least* it was not lost and it might as well work fine with re-installing it.
Yes, I will fix it and see how it behaves, thanks to wacholder for the info of the new potential switch, I know how hard is sometimes to find spare parts like switches for example for CV1700, C&K are making uprated switches, and I found them here on forum 3 months after I bought them 
Hi Mateusz !
C&K are making uprated switches, and I found them here on forum 3 months after I bought them
This one ?
I bought 10 of these, several 2 x, 4 x and 6 x Exchanger from Mouser - and the whole costs me about 150 Euros.
Fortunately I'd managed to get some ITT Schadow switches for the "Monitor"-switch on CV1400 from off Ebay as "new old stock" for significant lower prices.
This one is required for the speaker switches on CV120/121, CV1400 / 1600 und 1700, since they *need* the Now-Open and Now-Closed contacts as well. Power switches look the same but without the Now-Closed contacts in the high voltage compartment.
They came very costly but are at least available new and unused from C&K.
I fixed the "Lift" function, now turntable is 100% fixed
Yes, exactly this one for power switch, it was costly but it was much easier to find than those for speakers selection, as far as I remeber for the speakers they are black but I am not sure 100% I know that they are the same brand C&K, Monitor switch is broken in mine but I don't use it and I find it nice to have it as a pull option only without locking it. I bought them from Conrad site or ebay can't remember right now.
Another problem, this PIN comes off the plastic housing, part number is 247 547 but there is no part avaiable
I did some ebay research and found the same part but with 242580
Are those parts the same or 626 uses different one?
By the pics both are looking the same:
Here is the one from ebay: https://www.ebay.pl/itm/234778442254?hash=item36a9e2ba0e:g:HNwAAOSwhClghyAr&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoCRm4tHOaHZPAblb%2FlcMaL7mBUW3WRLIldKN6626u4iB7SrA%2BOqkeM%2F97Imc%2F%2B9qoNr59WqsybjGS3Qr3C8W0mvTrv%2Fd9csyoRvPofzrVQbtR5FI4E2vb9%2BS%2FQQTvMYF1I76jrhKWBPsB89qlSVGbRTX54bCTTWpGKAZVKimyIdWpAEvUBQUxfn%2F4pZpZYvw3YOz %2F8RNePLSyo8Q0bI02CU%3D%7Ctkp% 3ABk9SR9Cu2aSpYQ
Hi Mateusz !
Another problem, this PIN comes off the plastic housing, part number is 247 547
These pins are fixed as some sort of riveting with the flat metal conductor at the underside.
They are not very good in absorbing forces acting sideways and break loose.
*I* usually fix them from the underside by using some sandpaper and roughen the flat metal.
Then stick a silver wire 1.5mm diameter all along the pin through the hole in the bottom and solder that entirely.
After that I cut the wire at top and bottom and file them flat at the top and *almost* flat at the bottom - not to damage the soldering.
Here is the one from ebay:
As far as I can tell the 626 also uses the KS4 switch / wiring box - but it is black.
That one is white by what reason and I cannot recall a Dual unit that uses a white KS4. It *might* have to do with the different power supplies in Europe and the US and the built-in capacitor is only rated for 130V~ or something while these on our side of the pond used to have 250V~ from the factory and *should* be upgraded to X2-certified 275V~ rated parts. Due to the harmonized european power grid voltage of 230V~ +/- 10 percent - which *may* reach up to 253V~ on unloaded grid segments.
But I am only guessing here. In fact I had never seen a white KS4 switchbox.
Alles anzeigenHi Mateusz !
These pins are fixed as some sort of riveting with the flat metal conductor at the underside.
They are not very good in absorbing forces acting sideways and break loose.
*I* usually fix them from the underside by using some sandpaper and roughen the flat metal.
Then stick a silver wire 1.5mm diameter all along the pin through the hole in the bottom and solder that entirely.
After that I cut the wire at top and bottom and file them flat at the top and *almost* flat at the bottom - not to damage the soldering.
This is the solution I was looking for, I will try to fix it that way, I have soldering iron.
Thank You!!!
As for the KS4 switch from ebay, I will only need that housing with pins if I fail to repair mine unit, rest will be switched to our EU 230V spec with X2 capacitor.
Hi Mateusz !
This is the solution I was looking for, I will try to fix it that way, I have soldering iron.
Thank You!!!
It is a bit tricky to do, to be honest and you will curse a lot and roll with the eyes, but when you finally succeed you'll be happy.
And nothing substitutes a good equipped toolbox and someone who knows how to handle the stuff.
I wish you a nice, relaxing 2. Christmas Day.
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