American needs help with his PE 2020!

hello matt,

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We'll see how well it works

with a part made of rubber, the arm will move a little bit softer, but this will work too. if the friktion is not high enough, you can bend the copper-platet spring slightly, to generate more pressure

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Do either of you know where I can get one of the plastic alignment gauges used to set up the cartridge in the headshell?

i have 2 or 3 of these here, but i think the shipping-costs will be much more, than it´s worth it...

the alignment will be more precise, if you use a template, just like benjamin wrote.

the effektive mass of the arm is between "middle" and "light", so you can use systems with a cu between 35 and arround 25 (20?) - at least you have to test it.
i had an adc xlm on my 2020 and a philips gp 412 II - both with very good performance! the arm looks a bit old fashioned, but it works very good...

i think a shure v 15 III will work too, but i nerver tested it. if you don´t want to use vintage-cartridges, take a look at the nagaoka products.

if you want not to spend much money, use a shure m 75 - but then you will not use the whole capability of this turntable...

grüssle henner

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I do analog-to-digital transfers for people: http://www.MRMaudio.com ).
The Studer, well, that's in a class of its own.

Dear Matt,
thanks, yes I was lucky to get such a tape recorder.

For your specific purpose it really makes sense to run a complety restored Mid-60s "high-end" class record player with 16 up to 78 RPM - like the PE2020.

I you once got the chance to get a belt and idler wheel drive, like Thorens TD124 http://www.thorens-info.de/html/thorens_td_124.html or the braun PS500/PS1000 http://wegavision.pytalhost.com/braun69/Braun_05.jpg or others you may have an extraordinary drive from this era. PS1000 Braun PS52E**) and TD124 may come along with SME tonarmes or others. Properly maintained they offer reduced rumble and some flexibilities in choosing specific tonearm & cardrige combinations. Be honest it should be mentioned that today a TD124 cost too much money but a braun may be found bit cheaper. For 60Hz frequency you cannot buy an European model which I guess should be equipped with a different pulley. For Thorens Drives nearly all spare parts can be obtained or some specialist in Switerland as well in Germany have introduced new spare parts or new constructed assessories. Those Drives or others may improve your business but you already have very good devices.

But indeed a PE2020 was or still is a very good turntable for your purpose.

Probably you may have interest for specfic phono preamplifiers. There's one named Graham Slee Jazz Club http://www.gspaudio.de/html/jazz_club_03.html / engl: http://www.phonostagepreamp.co…club-phonostagepreamp.htm which offers different de-emphasis/equalization like RIAA, Decca, MGM and others. But it's not a cheap one and you need for MC cardriges an additional phono stage (or step-up transformer)

B.R.

Wolfgang

** EDIT
Description of a braun PS52 E see
http://www.aaanalog.de/media/a…g_02-10_neu_Leseprobe.pdf Page 3 (demo version) and Page 16 (full version)
http://www.radiodesign.de/museum/plattensp.htm

PS

Although he might be a competitor I would like to add a link to EROC Mastering Ranch http://www.eroc.de/erocs_maste…stering_ranch_english.php . He was the brain behind a famous Krautrock band http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grobschnitt and very early recordings has been done on a Revox A700. I guess he is an electronic engineer.

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Hi Henner,

So some good news and some bad news.

First, the good news: I finished cleaning and lubing the table last night. Now the automatic mechanism is working and the tonearm operates properly, setting down and lifting up just like it's supposed to. Thank you.

Now the bad news: When the tonearm returns to the rest after playing a record, the motor does not turn off and the platter just keeps spinning. I plan to read the service manual closely tonight to figure out what's going on, but if you have any guesses, let me know. . . .

"if you want not to spend much money, use a shure m 75 - but then you
will use the whole capability of this turntable... "

Are you saying that the shure M75 will use the whole capacity of the turntable or won't? I wasn't sure what you meant.

Also, any thoughts on using a different plinth? A lot of people with Garrard and Lenco idler wheel tables seem to think that you really have to use something heavier, like maple.

Best,

Matt

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Zitat von dbxdx5

"if you want not to spend much money, use a shure m 75 - but then you
will not use the whole capability of this turntable... "

sssorrrry

hello matt,

if i should make a guess, i would say...

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...that the green framed lever is still not moving free and does not release the switch in the red frame.

you have to be able to move the bearing (blue arrow) a bit up and down by not using any power. al parts of the diamatik have to be moveable very, very lightly - or it will not work...

sometimes the springs moving this lever have become powerless over the years - then you have to bend them a bit, to get the old performance.

this chassis is stored on springs and the influence of the plinth is not as big as it is at turntables with other design. the pe engineers found a chaep, light and well working solution for the plinth.

it is possible, that you can get a better perfomance with a more solid plinth - i would start experiments with multiplex beech wood...

greetz henner

...and another reason why the motor doesn´t stop is perhaps the bearing of the "regielever":

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greetz henner

hello matt,

if you disassemble only the parts put on this axle - as far as you can see on the picture - and remove the snap ring above the lever, you should be able to lube it. put some thin oil on it and move it up and down - that will be enough to make it work. and you have a good chance to bend the springs on the axle a bit, so they have more tension...

don´t be afraid - everyone we helped repairing his 2020 was able to make it work good at least.

greetz henner

hallo matt,

the spindels are ok, the problem is the position of the part in the red circle:

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it is not in the right up- or down position and so you can´t turn the spindle. perhaps you made a little mistake, when you reassembled the diamatik.

if you can not find it, i´ll need some pics from the "dark side of the moon"

greetz henner

...perhaps the big grey wheel is not in the "play position" - look at this first...

hello matt,

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Thanks. I really appreciate all of the help you've been giving me!

you´re welcome - i´m always glad to help and for every pe that starts playing records again

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By the way, your 2020 looks quite nice with the upgraded RCA cables and power cable!

yes - it looks nice - but using those thick cables was one of my early mistakes. they don´t allow the chassis to swing free, what is very important for this design.

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Are those the standard rubber suspension sleeves that you have over the three springs?

these rubber sleeves were original on my springs, but i got other models without them...

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My suspension springs have foam wedged in between the coils, I assume to help adjust the height for leveling.

the foam is for damping the oscillation of the chassis. you better replace it by "fresh" moltoporen - after 40 years it is near to be decomposed.

if the hight of the chassis is not right or equal in your plinth, it´s because the wood sags over the years under the very heavy weight of the platter.
you can see pix of my plinth restauration in my linked thread.

don´t try to push or pull on the springs to vary the length. they are shurly made in hell and this is not possible without damaging something

Zitat von dbxdx5

As for the grey wheel, I assume you mean the cam in the center--what would be considered the "play" position?

when the automatic moved the tonearm to the beginning of the record and the record starts to play, the grey wheel rests in the position > you can see on my picture...

greetz henner

hallo matt,

after detecting the record-size the red lever moves into the right position and then the tonearm moves inside until the green screw touches the red lever. the shaft of the green screw is excentric, so you can adjust the ste-down point.
you have to watch - while the automatic is at work - if the screw really touches the lever. if it doesn´t touch, there is not enough friction and you can bend the copper-plated spring with the tack a bit in direction of the friction-segment. don´t bend it too much - there needs to be some space between the tack and the friction-segment while the record is playing...

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...if the screw touches the lever you can release these two screws and turn the friction segment a bit to adjust. but then you will have to adjust the "take-off point" at the end of the record too.

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there is some further work, you will have to do in the near future - sorry

the contact-pin of the lift mechanism inside the tonearm is made of the same material as the part you replaced by the tack. so it has to be replaced in the next days. the tonearm will be not able to lift high enough then - you will see

for that "operation" you have to disassemble the tonearm and you will have to do all this adjustments again - it´s your choice, if you would rather do all this completely, or first test the turntable with a few records?

greetz henner

... here´s a pic from the lft contact-pin in the green circle:

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...the red arrow shows how to bend the spring.

i know, it´s much work to put a 2020 in a perfect condition - but you will be proud, when it´s done!

greetz henner