PE 2018L lift

    Hello,


    First of all I have to say sorry for speaking English. I was looking for the info everywhere and didn't find any specific forum for PE, so if I break the rules speaking so, please forgive me.


    I found PE 2018L in a good condition, but automatic is broken, which is not surprise. More, lift does not keep the cart high. It goes down smoothly, but initially it is too low, so I have to put it onto the record manually.


    I went through the forum and see that this is typical problem. Mine 2018 looks, however, perfect: I can't say it was used hard, it's rather like new, outside and inside. So I have a hope to repair it and use instead of Pro-Ject Debut...


    May I ask if I lubricate all the points as shown in service manual, does it help? Is there some clear instruction somewhere how to adjust the lifting? Is it broken, actually, or it can be adjusted?
    I can use PE in manual mode, it's OK. The only worrying thing is lifting..


    Thank you


    Vitaly


    P.S. I can read German using google translate. It helps more or less...
    P.P.S. the only service manual I found so far is for 2015 which is a bit different, or maybe even very different. So I'm not quite sure how to proceed for now.

    3 Mal editiert, zuletzt von vitalbesson ()

    Hello,
    english is not forbidden, but not common... :P here. Its one of the heaviest failures you can have with this PEs. The Lift has inside the Armbase an small pin which was pressed by the Liftbank to the top. This pin is gone :( You have to disasemble the arm with basis from the back side of the chassis. Then you can see this loosen pin inside the Arm. Dont be a fool and disasamble the vertical bearing of the arm for this action, its much easier to assemble the arm back to the chassis, then to put back 14x 1mm Bearingballs :thumbup:
    The completest manual for this , you can find is HERE Its from a complete overhaul Thread from a Forum colleague with much pictures to a similar 2020 L !


    Greets Lutz

    2 Mal editiert, zuletzt von lucky ()

    Thank you so much!


    I'll try. Should I remove the armbasis with the arm completely from the chassis, or it's enough to nake it from the down side?
    And, the pin itself could be found inside floating, or it's rather gone at all?


    UPD: Ah, found the link you shared. Thanks, again. Go deeper in it. ))

    2 Mal editiert, zuletzt von vitalbesson ()

    Hi,
    just do it like "Bepone" declares it in his Posting. Remove the cable and so on....The Pin must be a little Teflonscrew 2mm thick with a head, and thats verry importent to keep the original adjustments, of 1,25mm Thickness ! Then you have nothing to adjust after replacing it. If you increase or discrease the size you have to do some correctings from the original settings that would be not easy.
    You can find the screw in any Miniature Model shop like CONRAD in Germany for example HERE .


    Greets Lutz

    Good Morning Vitaly,
    You can use perfectly the same Teflonscrew as for the Lift ! Its a 100% compatible replacement. You have nothing to adjust then. Its like I told you for the Liftpin. Its extremly importent to use this 2mm Teflon Screw with his 1,25mm Head !! Every other size of this, has to be new adjusted the correct the automatic functions. This adjustments can be a real hassle ! You must shorten the screw to 4mm length and then put it into the small hole in the copper spring with the head to friction surface. Thats it ! :thumbup:


    Greets Lutz

    Thank you!!! The hole in the yellow plate where the pin was located is kind of delicate thing. I'll start with some rubber insert, because the tonearm is not really heavy to move. Hopefully rubber piece, inserted tightly, could be enough... I will try.


    Thank you again for your help!

    I've made a mistake. I screwed HH bolt too low - and it went down completely. :)


    http://farm5.static.flickr.com…70621154_e163cde3bb_o.gif


    Now the side counterweight wheel (62), of course, doesn't work, but it's not problem: I can set counterweight using back tonearm wheel with the electronic scaler, the only thing I'm afraid of - the spring (68 on the picture) and its screw are now inside the tonearm base, just floating. Can it cause to unwanted sounds or response in the sound? Hopefully not...


    For the moment, I have a hope that auto mode, when fixed, would be enough to do not disassemble tonearm base, because with auto mode tonearm goes really high, higher when in manual mode. ( But, if I have to disassemble it, finally, I can fix the spring then too...)


    P.S. I'm looking carefully to the tonearm base schematics and it seems that (I know it's opposite to your warning) it might be easier to open it from the top. Yes, balls :) If I control them and grease them well - that's anyway much easier, don't you think so?

    2 Mal editiert, zuletzt von vitalbesson ()

    Zitat

    Yes, balls :) If I control them and grease them well - that's anyway much easier, don't you think so?


    No, i ts looking easier but i swear you will highly regret this step. We all here doin it first this way and its taking hours.... you loose balls to the inside, cause the bearing is inside open (!) and so on and on.... :cursing:
    Disasembling the arm is done in maxmum 15 minutes. Puting back the same.
    Believe it or not its equal to me.... ;)




    Regards Lutz


    By the way: for hooking up the spring on the right place its necessary to diassemble the Arm too... :love:

    Ah.... :(
    Do you mean, 15 minutes for disassemble from the other side? Or, you mean 15 minutes from top plus many hours to get it all back? :)

    No only 15 minutes to dissamble the complete arm from the backside of the chassis !!! Its looking much more complicater as it was practically !


    Regards Lutz

    Hi Vitaly,


    i agree to Lutz: Disasambling / assambling the complete tonearm from the chassis is easier to do then disasambling the vertical bearings.


    Takes 15-20 minutes when you have done it one time before ;)
    The first time, 30 minutes? :P


    The Steuerpimpel is a bit difficult to reach when you disassamble the complete tonearm.



    Take care about the signal-cables for the tonearm: I disoldered / soldered mine many times without damaging them, but other guys said that the cables are breaking easily by resoldering them.


    By reasambling the tonearm, you have to precise adjust the bearing clearence for horizontal bearing, but it isn't very difficult (only one nut).


    Take a look at the many pictures (Lutz linked the thread), that should help very well.
    Unfortionally all in German ;)



    P.S. For the lift you need special silicone grease if you want do re-grease it completely, do you know about that?


    P.P.S. Hope my English is good enough to understand.



    Greetings
    Benjamin

    Plattenspieler in Verwendung: *Dual 1019, 1219, 1229, 1249, 701 "MK1", 721* *Perpetuum Ebner 2020 L* *Kenwood KD3100* *Hitachi HT-500* *Elac 50H* *Philips 312 Electronic*

    Lutz, Benjamin, thank you so much.


    Yes, silicone for lift, of course.
    I'll print the photos Lutz shared above, and place them near the translation of the thread.


    So far I got progress: auto mode works perfect!!! I inserted a piece of wire to that plate managing tonearm (as I saw on one of the photos), instead of screw, so far. And... It all awake and work!!!!!!!


    I adjusted then landing point, and that's all. Now I can go to the tonearm...


    By the way: is there a way to manage VTA and the angle of the needle? I forgot the name of this angle, it's about to be perpendicular to the surface when you look at the needle from front point, in tonearm axis... My shell is simple red plastic without that big frontal screw as shown often on the pictures. At least, can I rotate the arm in it's axis?

    Einmal editiert, zuletzt von vitalbesson ()

    Zitat von Bepone

    By reasambling the tonearm, you have to precise adjust the bearing clearence for horizontal bearing, but it isn't very difficult (only one nut).

    This one makes me worrying. Where exactly this one?


    Also, is it possible to proceed without putting out the whole table from the wooden base?


    Lutz: may I kindly ask you to specify the screw to be used as pimpel dimensions? It's a bit unclear to me: should it be 2 mm length with the head or without? Or this should be 10 mm long, 2mm thick? I'm confused which one to choose.


    One more thought: should be a screw? If the original pimpel became dust, maybe it's OK to put any suitable tick - plastic, for example? If so, what length would be good?


    Thank you!!!

    4 Mal editiert, zuletzt von vitalbesson ()

    Hi Vitaly,
    the screw must be 2mm (DIN) thick, the length can vary between 4-6mm. The real importent is the height of the screwhead ! It must be nearly exactly 1,25 mm. No being under this size is allowed, the maximum height is1,5mm. Dont go above this size, then you have to adjust a lot things which are'nt necessary if you use the correct original size.


    Regards Lutz

    Yes this is the rest of the pin. Just take a 2mm Driller in the hand and drill manually a 2mm hole in this soft rest. Then take a normal glue like UHU (no second-glue !) and press the Teflonscrew with the 1,25 mm head complete in. Thats it ! Fixed :thumbup: This size is extráordinary importent for keeping the original settings ! Believe me its very hard to adjust it correctly, only for this f...ing incorrect size !!!!


    Regards Lutz

    Hi Vitaly,


    back from work and ready to answer ;)


    Zitat von vitalbesson

    By the way: is there a way to manage VTA and the angle of the needle? I forgot the name of this angle, it's about to be perpendicular to the surface when you look at the needle from front point, in tonearm axis... My shell is simple red plastic without that big frontal screw as shown often on the pictures. At least, can I rotate the arm in it's axis?


    You mean "Azimut"? Don't know if you can rotate the tonearm (never tried). On the back, it's fixed with a screw, i think. You will see it when you got the tonearm and it's base disasambled from the chassis.


    Zitat von vitalbesson

    Zitat von »Bepone«
    By reasambling the tonearm, you have to precise adjust the bearing clearence for horizontal bearing, but it isn't very difficult (only one nut).


    This one makes me worrying. Where exactly this one?



    It's quite simple. The nut is this one (red circle): http://www.dual-board.de/index…chment&attachmentID=34766
    The (slottet) nut holds the whole tonearm + base and is for adjusting the bearing clearance.



    Greetings
    Benjamin

    Plattenspieler in Verwendung: *Dual 1019, 1219, 1229, 1249, 701 "MK1", 721* *Perpetuum Ebner 2020 L* *Kenwood KD3100* *Hitachi HT-500* *Elac 50H* *Philips 312 Electronic*

    I think he means the overhang of the needlepoint. There are only adjustments if you have the headshell from a 2020 with the VTA Knob in front. In this shell was a slider which you can shift from the top. Just loosen the screw you see there inside and drop it forward or backward. There are an original Overhang gauge available from PE for this.


    Regards Lutz

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