Hi,
Exactly my method. Easy to do at home. New bearings can also be bought otherwise.
See: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/motor-…ith-3mm-spindle
Motor bearings set for Beogram motor with 4,5mm spindle – Danish Sound Parts
Hi,
Exactly my method. Easy to do at home. New bearings can also be bought otherwise.
See: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/motor-…ith-3mm-spindle
Motor bearings set for Beogram motor with 4,5mm spindle – Danish Sound Parts
I had an SL-1200 mk2 but I stupidly sold it.
Ich muss unbedingt einen 1019er finden!
I really need to find a 1019 too ☺️
Hi,
I love those two fondly. The 1229 has a VM740ML and the 701 has an original V15III.
I have no questions, I wanted to say I’m happy! 😊
Moin!
Ich liebe diese beiden sehr. Der 1229 hat einen VM740ML und der 701 hat einen original V15III.
Ich habe keine Fragen, ich wollte nur sagen, dass ich glücklich bin 😊.
Nice work. The old version was already close to perfect though!
Thanks again
Hallo!
Ich benutze dieses – OM20 – und es funktioniert perfekt!
Es ist eine perfekte Passform ohne jegliches Spiel.
Jacques
Herzlichen Glückwunsch!
Eine bemerkenswerte Arbeit an diesem schönen 701.
Hi,
Beautiful.
Like me, you may have a late series one. I have a 701 with the brushed alu casting and the vinyl coated plinth.
Does it have the CD4 anti skate knob?
The V15III is excellent, if it comes with a good stylus.
But no cartridges beat the Audio-Technicas with an ML stylus. You can also buy a Micro-Ridge stylus (exactly the same cut as the ML but Shure gave it a different name).
Hallo,
Wunderschön.
Wie ich hast du vielleicht eine späte Serie. Ich habe einen 701 mit dem gebürsteten Alu-Guss und dem vinylbeschichteten Sockel.
Hat es den CD4 Anti-Skate-Knopf?
Der V15III ist ausgezeichnet, wenn er mit einem guten Stift geliefert wird.
Keine Patronen übertreffen die Audio-Technicas mit einem ML-Stylus. Sie können auch einen Micro-Ridge-Stylus kaufen (genau der gleiche Schnitt wie der ML, aber Shure gab ihm einen anderen Namen).
Sorry about the probably very poor translation.
Hi,
Okay then Donald ☺️ – postage was included in the offer anyway!
Jacques
Hello,
You can get a very good platter bearing from AudioVault in Canada.
Otherwise you can try sanding the discs with very fine sandpaper (up to 5000) and then polishing them.
You can also try ceramic balls, at least G5 grade, or G3 steel balls, for example here (shop in Germany).
But in my experience, the noise comes from the idler wheel rather than the platter bearing.
Hi David,
Or if your bearing is worn (I very much doubt it though) I’d gladly give you one away because I now use the Audiovault bearing!
Jacques
Why do you torture yourself David?
Everybody here says it’s ok to use the Dual accessory.
Just have a life! ☺️
Jacques
By the way… 😉
Dual engineers were certainly able to design optimal tonearm characteristics. Let’s forget about everything you read on the web and just trust their fine work.
That said, it isn’t rocket science! ☺️
Reproduction protractors like Alfred’s (grab that one) are carbon copies of original ones, certainly not approximate 3-D printed affairs. Good enough for me, and for you too I guess.
Yes, I’ve been a member for 15 years!
I don’t use the calculator, of any printable protractors.
The short answer is yes. Use what Dual supplied with their decks.
Whatever scheme they used is unimportant in the end: alignment will be optimal.
Same about Thorens or Technics.
Die kurze Antwort lautet: Ja. Verwenden Sie das, was Dual mit ihren Decks geliefert hat.
Welches Schema sie verwendet haben, ist letztlich unwichtig: Die Ausrichtung wird optimal sein.
Dasselbe gilt für Thorens oder Technics.
I for one trust the old Dual alignment protractors that came with the different decks.
Don’t bother look elsewhere.
Q-tip + Miror Argentil + IPA.
I did all my Duals this way. Also renovates perfectly DIN plug pins.